Is there a way to label or nickname my savings accounts in Wells Fargo?
Log into Wells Fargo in a browser or the app.
In a browser, click your profile (where it says “Welcome, (your name),” then click to expand “My Profile.” Under there, you can see a menu item for “Nickname Accounts.”
On the app, click the entry to the far lower right, “Menu,” then choose your name/profile near the top. Then choose “Nickname accounts.”
If you are used to online banking this is what the website says
To create or change an account nickname, go to Nickname Accounts, enter a nickname, and select Create Nicknames.
I entered Nickname Accounts in the search bar and got the page to name account
When I worked there this happened all the time in my branch. It was the main reason I left Wells Fargo. What would happen is a client would come in who had a checking account or loan but didn’t have a savings account, debit card, online banking, etc. We were told to open those accounts for them and state that they came free to clients. They were portrayed as accessories to the one or two accounts that they legitimately signed up for.
Then it began to occur with credit cards and lines of credit. We were told not to disclose too much information about the details because they could find all the information in the paperwork that we provide to them. If you’ve seen the paperwork it’s ridiculously complex legal jargon. No one understands it.
People started getting maintenance fees, annual fees, or interest charges for products they were unaware of. This is how Wells Fargo stole money from them. We were discouraged from waving such fees.
We were told we did not need to get signatures for these products because we already had a signature on file for the one account that they did sign up for like a checking account.
This occurred throughout the entire region that I worked in. It was common practice at almost every branch.
Yes, you can name it just about anything you want as long as you can access the Wells Fargo website or use their app. I have several for each child of mine plus one for me, one for wife and a business savings account.
It’s impossible to know what exactly happened until you have a sit down in the bank with a manager or associate who can pull up the account on your behalf and look into it.
Be honest. You should be able to square it up. It’s possible that someone is using your account. Wells Fargo won’t take $1,000 out of your account like that. Don’t wait. Make that appointment tomorrow in the AM. Take off work if you have to. Good luck.
I think people should close accounts and never deal with them again. The only contact I have with them is through Stripe, and if I had a choice, I would use paypal and skip them. Because of what they did, many customers had their credit records destroyed,, their accounts siphoned from bogus fees and their trust destroyed. People should go to jail, and not tellers, their bosses. It was all done in aid of manipulating their stock. They demanded sales targets that would have been unachievable without chicanery.
Yes. They know how to properly write a rent to own contract.
They state clearly that they retain ownership of the property under the terms of the contract that you signed, and that conversion of the property to yourself in violation of the terms of the contact is theft. It is backed up by the laws written to govern rent to own business.
They know what they are doing.
I have turned down rent to own agencies who did not have a properly prepared contract or a contract that did not contained the specific language required by state law. But Rent to Own always had their stuff in order.
Unless their employee really screwed up and did not fill in the contract properly.
If you have any question take your contract to an attorney in your local jurisdiction and describe your circumstances. You will pay attorneys fees as well as paying off the contract but it beats being arrested and still having to pay off the contract.
Tell ya what. I’ll give you my account number, you can wire $1000. Then we can connect.
Years ago when I was managing a few rentals I received notice from one of my tenants that she was moving. She asked me if the owner would like to buy the washer and dryer for $100.00 dollars each. I went over and expected the good condition appliances and advised the owners that they should purchase them. For $100 it was a deal.
A month later I get a call from the Rent-A-center (RAC). They told me they called the previous tenant and she told them she left the appliances at the house. They could call me to make arrangements to pick them up. I’m like WTH and I explained to them that I bought the appliances from her. Additionally I inspected the appliances and there were no RAC stickers or markings anywhere. They told me okay and that they would pursue her for monetary damages. We kept the appliances. Dumb move on her part.
This is standard in a lot of places as direct deposit is for current employees who opt for it only. As someone who quit/was terminated whatever the case may be you are no longer a current employee therefore direct deposit has likely been turned off. Your check should be mailed to you shortly, if not you may have to contact the human resource person at the company you previously worked.
I’m not sure what already checks cashed are. However if you remove the already part, I might assume you mean simply where can you get checks cashed. Let’s go with that.
Besides cashing a check at a bank where you have an account, you could also cash the check at the bank it was issued from. For instance, if I have an account at Bank of America and write you a check, you could cash it at Bank of America. Banks typically charge a small fee if you don’t have an account though. I had a check issued to me, drawn from a Bank of America account. I don’t have an account at Bank of America. The check was for $400, and I think they charged me $3 to cash it. I also had a check issue to me on a Bank of America account for $2,700, and I think they charged me $7. I don’t remember exactly but I do know it was under $10.
The next place you could cash a check written to you is a check cashing place. Some have rules about personal checks, some actually advertise they accept personal checks. You have to check with them before hand to make sure they accept personal checks or not. Some have rules that they only accept pre printed checks like from an institution or business. Usually because such checks have a slightly less risk of being fake. Though all checks have a risk of being fake, to be honest. Which is why they will call to verify the check (rarely will they not call and verify a check. The one exception might be with an established, frequent, and trusted customer.), so be sure when you go to cash it that it’s during customer service hours. I’ve had it happen to where I went to go cash a check that was perfectly valid, however it was in the evening. The customer service for the institution that issued the check was closed. Therefore they couldn’t verify the check and I had to come back the next day. So plan accordingly to save yourself the trouble.
Each check cashing place charges a different amount depending on the check your cashing, and for how much. They usually have a breakdown of under $500, under $1000, and over $1000. It’s usually a percent. Some places don’t accept checks over a certain amount, as to do so would require them to maintain an obscene amount of cash on hand to accommodate, creating a possible security issue. So depending on how much your check is for, you might want to ask them about that as well.
For instance if you have a check over $2500, technically even Bank of America wants you to call ahead. I got a stock disbursement for $2925, drawn on an account from Bank of America. They cashed it for me, I think they charged me $7 to cash it, but they told me normally they don’t cash checks over $2,500 without calling ahead first. They said they regularly override that rule, but on a case by case basis. The higher the amount, the less possibility they’ll do it. Probably has to do with how much cash they keep on hand, being able to service a certain amount of customers, and security issues. They did it for me, because it was only a few hundred dollars over.
But a quick Google search with your location on for “checks cashed near me” will give you a list of everywhere within 30 miles you could conceivably cash a check.
I would say Walmart, because they’re pretty good about cashing checks and accept many different types of checks. Their fees are also pretty reasonable. Much less than typical check cashing places. Unfortunately they use certegy. This company is ridiculous. they have a bad habit of approving checks for some amounts but not others. And not even like you would think. Like they approve the check to be cashed one day for $500, then reject another for $40. And you can never get any answers from them, the 1-800 number is completely automated, and every single time I’ve ever had to call them the computer couldn’t even find the reference number that they gave me. Always “ I can’t find that file or reference number in the system”
After a year-and-a-half, I finally got in contact with an actual. Turned out the reason I was rejected (for this one year-and-a-half-old transaction that is), was because they had a California ID on file and I used my Nevada ID, as I had moved. Also because they had a California address for me, and now I had a Nevada address. Me showing up on the system with a Nevada ID and address flagged the transaction as suspicious. This being after I had already cashed a different check previously, mind you. Even though the Nevada ID was valid. And that’s just that one ancient transaction. I had another occasion, I shit you not, where I was trying to cash a check FROM WALMART, AT A WALMART, BEING A WALMART EMPLOYEE… for $146, and Sertegy flagged it as suspicious. Absolutely ridiculous. A month before I cashed a similar check for $803. No problem. But apparently certegy has an employee who throws darts at a board to determine whether to reject you or approve you. Better luck next time. Which I did have, when they again decided to accept another similar check for $178, even though 3 weeks ago they again declined another similar check for $108.
I don’t work in the store, I work in logistics. But everybody in the store that I go to knows me. The customer service manager was actually embarrassed. But I knew it wasn’t her fault.
Problem is so many drug addicts and lowlifes have have been taking advantage of the checking system to commit fraud that businesses have had to take extra measures to protect themselves. Further more, the paper check as a financial instrument is obsolete, outdated, and ripe for criminal abuse.
In fact I have a theory. The only thing paper checks are good for anymore.. are old ladies at the grocery store, and fraud.
Holograms, watermarks, hidden inlaid patterns in the background, even a person’s signature, can all be faked depending on the skill of the forger. And even many street level criminals can forge one well enough to pass a few times before they are discovered.
Each bank has its own security features, and they are typically the only ones who know them all. So half the times the forgery isn’t detected until it gets back to the issuing bank. Easily 5 or more days after the forger is long gone.
Generally speaking, no.
However, they can go to court and get an order from the court to enter and retrieve their property which you received and did not pay for.
Generally when they get a court order, they go into your house with a police escort. It varies from state to state.
Wrong about the credit check! Rent A Center doesn’t do credit checks. I was a manager there for 8 years and I am willing to bet they would have to go out of business if they did credit checks. Most of the people they rented to have very poor credit, that’s why they are doing business at RAC instead of other options.
To verify your application they call the numbers you provide them with. They check your credit the old fashioned way, by calling your current employer, current and previous landlord, and 4 personal references.
If you check out, they will rent you what you desire so long as your monthly payment does not exceed 15% of your monthly income.
If you start to miss payments they begin a fierce collection process which consists of calling and visiting your home, your place of employment, and even the homes of your four personal references. If you have moved (skipped) they have a skip tracing procedure that can find you although it takes a little more time. ( and money) Since they are nationwide plus have stores in Mexico and an affiliate in Canada you basically have to leave the continent to “get away with it”. They have a legal team that can garnish your wages many years after you think you have gotten a w ay with it. They can also conduct a relieving which consists of getting a court order via judge to legally enter your home and take what’s theirs. For this they must hire a locksmith and then they enter your home with a sheriff and local authorities as well. Think of it like an eviction but where the only stuff that leaves is RACs.
Deslite all of this, every month each Rent A Center in the country charges off (cuts their losses) on a number of accounts( anywhere from 0 to 10). Sometimes it just doesnt make sense financially to chase a debt.( like if they were a couple hundred bucks away from owning that $4000 70″ plasma TV. ) Or if it means repossessing a fridge and bunk bed from a single mom ( who happens to go church with some of your best customers).
For a time, my father’s bank dabbled a market that is quite similar to Rent-a-Center, and he explained to me how these operations work.
A buyer comes in and wants an item that they can’t afford to pay for up front. They sign a lease agreement to cover the cost of the item (say, a $1200 TV), with no money down.
The lease agreement breaks down like this:
$29.99 a week for 104 weeks
Total of All Payments: $3,118.96
Their “Rent-to-own Charge” is $1,688.27.
So, they’ve effectively paid for the cost of the retail value of the thing after 1 year (and the cost to the company, has been covered by the 6th month), so in this particular instance, if the customer defaults on their lease at any time between the 6th and 12th month, they aren’t losing any money on the deal – but they still get to go after them with immediately, raised interest rates, late fees AND they can seize the asset. Specialized debt collection agencies exist to recover defaulted assets. For my father’s bank, they retrieved defaulted mobile homes (which were apparently hard to track down, because, well, mobile.) But find them they did, because if you couldn’t pay your loan payment, you generally couldn’t afford the gas to move a mobile home very far.
That said, the majority of people don’t default, but are instead utilizing these systems to build their credit. But when you do, that’s when the “repo man cometh.”